Bolting

Photo: Kanangra Main by Alex Motyka

Summary

Canyons are unique and often fragile environments. The use of bolted anchors in these environments is controversial; the rationale for their use is a “balancing act” and often not clear-cut. Ultimately, the benefits of using bolts must outweigh the negatives. In general, avoid placing bolts if suitable natural anchors provide adequate protection to the canyoner within the context of the canyon’s characteristics and the optimal line of movement. The Australian Canyoning Association (ACA) does not support the indiscriminate placement of bolts in canyon environments. 

Purpose

Recognising that:

  • the sport of canyoning has a discernible impact on the natural environment,

  • setting bolts for the purpose of creating abseil anchors occurs within the Australian recreational canyoning context,

  • the permanent impact that synthetic materials have on the environment and,

  • setting bolts has historically been controversial amongst the canyoning community.

This guideline seeks to establish a code of ethics that outlines the situations in which the use of bolts may be considered acceptable by the canyoning community. 

Disclaimer

Canyoning involves an inherent risk of severe injury or death. The ultimate responsibility for these risks remains with the individual canyoner. The Australian Canyoning Association does not accept responsibility or liability for loss or damages caused in relation to an individual's interpretation or use of this code of ethics.

This document:

  • is not intended as an instructional guide or training on how to bolt,

  • is not intended as definitive advice on anchors or the contexts in which the various anchor types may be used,

  • does not represent permission to bolt in canyon environments,

  • does not seek to represent the view of the various government agencies responsible for the management of national parks and crown land,

  • does not apply to bolts intended for commercial use,

  • applies exclusively to bolting in the context of Australia and related Australian territories, and

  • does not distinguish between specific geographical areas within Australia and does not seek to provide different advice between areas.

Impact on the environment

All canyoning has an impact on the environment. While the placement of bolts is often seen as a permanent alteration to the natural environment the same argument applies to other forms of synthetic anchors (e.g. tape and rope around natural anchors are functionally equivalent if not removed) and the intrinsic wear created by human activity in a canyon (e.g. rope rub, rope grooves in rock, trampling of vegetation by foot travel, soil compaction around anchors etc). 

The only way to ensure human activity does not impact canyon environments is to simply not enter said environments. This would, however, detrimentally impact the sport of canyoning. As a result, the ACA’s position is that every canyoner has an ethical duty to reduce their impact on the natural canyon environment while still allowing the sport of canyoning to occur. The placement of foreign material (bolts, slings, rope, maillons/quick links etc) in canyons does not necessarily undermine this moral imperative.

The optimal line

The optimal line refers to the ideal line of descent, ascent or traverse for a geographic feature requiring abseiling, rock climbing or protected traverse. These features are referred to as a problem. The optimal line can vary depending on:

  • Ascent, descent or traverse 

  • Amount of water and aquatic features

  • The characteristics or complexity of the terrain or route

  • Density of vegetation 

  • Fragility or instability of the terrain 

  • Risk of significant injury or death

  • Rope retrieval 

  • Seasonal weather

  • Flash flood risk

  • The skill level of the canyoner 

  • Novelty of the feature or problem

  • Commercial use

A problem may have several optimal lines to account for different contexts (e.g. level of water).


Who should bolt

Before placing bolts in a canyon the setter must consider if they have:

  • permission of the land owner,

  • appropriate hardware and equipment (UIAA rated bolts, glue, drill etc), and

  • an appropriate level of required technical skill to place bolts safely in the desired context e.g. soft rock vs hard rock.

This document is not intended as an instructional guide for placing bolts. Placing bolts is a technical skill that requires training, practice and mentorship. Individuals intending to place bolts are expected to possess this knowledge and experience.

Record of bolting

The canyon, canyon problem, type of bolts, and year of installation should be recorded so that the scope and quality of bolting can be monitored by the community.

The register does not constitute an endorsement of placement or certification of compliance with bolting standards (see Standards section).

The ACA will establish a bolt register. Additions to the register will not identify the submitter or bolter.

Permission

Bolting on private land requires the permission of the landowner.

In some circumstances consultation with indigenous, cultural or spiritual organisations or representatives may be required.

While it may not be legally permissible without the appropriate permission from the land owner, it is considered morally defensible to place bolts as a “last resort”, provided no reasonable alternative exists to descend or escape the canyon. This is preferable to the cost and impact on emergency services that an emergency extraction would otherwise incur.

Similarly, it can also be considered morally defensible to place bolts in the context of an  search and rescue (SAR) event (e.g. medical emergency) where placing bolts is required for the safe extraction of a party or individual. Bolts placed for the purposes of SAR may not be appropriate for ongoing recreational or commercial use and should not be relied upon.

Rationale and defensibility

Modifying rock is a permanent alteration to the natural environment and as such the decision to place bolts must be defensible. Before placing bolts the setter must consider the rationale for and against their placement.

Note that historically there has been resistance to the use of bolts in canyons and as such the case for the placement of bolts needs to be strong and clearly outweigh the negatives. 

If you are uncertain about the defensibility of a potential bolt placement please contact the Australian Canyoning Association.

Reasons for bolting

Non-comprehensive list of reasons supporting bolting: 

  • Lack of suitable natural anchor - the characteristics of the canyon result in a situation where a natural anchoring point is unavailable or unsuitable for a problem and it’s optimal line

  • Provision of a safe or alternate option for canyon progression in unusual conditions - the optimal line of descent or ascent is commonly established for the average climatic/seasonal conditions. However, uncommon climatic conditions may result in a situation where the optimal line can no longer be safely descended/ascended (e.g. high flow in a La Niña year) and an alternate anchor is required to establish an alternate optimal line.

  • Reduction in damage to rock surfaces - damage caused by wear on rock as ropes are pulled down over an edge. Common in high traffic canyons.

  • Reduction of litter in the environment - discreetly placed bolts reduce the amount of synthetic fabric/material (i.e. tape, rope) found in canyons which often accumulates over time as sling anchors are reinforced with additional tape or rope. Sling anchors can also be easily damaged and/or ripped out after storms, floods or bushfires resulting in pieces of tape and rope being washed down river.

  • Protection of flora - many Australian canyons are rich with flora (e.g. ferns, shallow rooted trees, moss etc) that are easily disturbed or damaged. Bolts encourage traffic over more durable surfaces (i.e. rock) and reduce the risk of damage to trees and other flora which would otherwise be used as anchors or be trampled 

  • Canyons used for commercial applications - canyons that experience high levels of use by commercial/guided parties with low skill highly dependent participants may benefit from well placed bolts to improve the level of safety for participants and reduce impact on natural anchors

  • Forced jumps - in-line with the French canyon grading system (the defacto standard grading system) jumps must be optional. This may require an alternative optimal line to be established. In this context the bolting code of ethics still applies to the alternative line.

  • Minimising visual impact - the visual impact of discrete and well placed bolts is arguably much lower than the practise of leaving tape/rope/slings in canyons. Not to be used as the sole reason to justify bolting.

Reasons against bolting

Non-comprehensive list of reasons against bolting: 

  • Permanent alteration of rock - bolting requires the permanent alteration of the rock. While this is considered a negative it is preferable over damaging or killing native flora.

  • Comfort/convenience - bolts should not be placed simply because the line of travel or the start from a natural anchor might be considered difficult by some canyoners

  • Lower the level of skill required - bolts often encourage higher use and lessen the degree of skill and judgement required to progress through a canyon. The same argument exists for sling based anchors.

  • Difficult to inspect - unlike sling (tape or rope) based anchors, bolts are more difficult to inspect for damage or weakness

  • Visual impact - bolts, like sling based anchors, can create a visual impact that lessens the wilderness value of an area.

  • Bolts can be installed incorrectly - poorly placed bolts may have reduced strength and pose risk to the canyoner

  • Local community ethic - certain areas within Australia (e.g. Blue Mountains) have organically developed informal localised principals around the placement of foreign material (bolts, slings, rope hand lines etc) in canyons. These ethics are often not well documented and vary depending who you talk to. Consult widely to understand the local ethic.

  • Culturally or historically significant area - bolting should not occur in culturally or historically significant areas e.g. areas of indigenous cultural significance

  • Designated land use - land that has been closed to rock/rope related activities

Bolt removal

In general, only damaged, deteriorating or incorrectly installed bolts that pose a significant risk of severe injury or death to the canyoner should be removed (a.k.a. “chopped”) and if necessary replaced. 

Where bolts have been placed indiscriminately (i.e. their placement is not defensible within the Bolting Code of Ethics) please consult the Australian Canyoning Association. These bolts should not be removed without consultation, as their removal may jeopardise the safety of canyoners who rely on said bolts and have not come adequately prepared to create their own anchors. A plan for removal and communication of change in canyon characteristics may be formulated.

Standards

Bolted anchors must meet the NZ Canyoning Association standards which themselves are informed by guidance from the NZ Alpine Club for climbing anchors, The New Zealand Canyoning Activity Safety Guideline (for commercial canyoning) and the EN959 (current version is EN959:2019) and UIAA12312 (current version UIAA 123 v4 December 2020) standards.

Excerpt from the NZ Canyoning Association Bolting Code of Practise:

  • The complete anchor system must have a minimum ultimate strength of 20kN.

  • Two bolts must be used for abseil anchors or initial handline anchors.

  • Each bolt must have a minimum ultimate strength of 20kN.

  • All anchor components must be constructed of the same material, being 316 (or

  • better) Stainless Steel

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