Technical skills checklist

Photo: Kalang by Alex Motyka

Progression through a canyon often requires the descent, ascent or traverse of a geographic feature requiring abseiling, rock climbing or protecting traverses. These features are referred to as a canyon problem.

We’ve put together a checklist to give you some idea of the technical skills required to negotiate these problems safely.

While the majority of canyons in Australia only require relatively basic abseiling skills, as your experience grows you may choose to chase harder more technical canyons requiring more advanced techniques.

Advanced technical canyons will combine a range skills and techniques from numerous disciplines including abseiling, caving, rock climbing, vertical rescue and swift water.

To help you understand where you might sit within the spectrum of expertise we’ve broken down the skills, techniques and knowledge into the following levels:

  • SP = Safe Participant - has the requisite skills and knowledge to participate in technical canyoning safely but is dependant on others for rigging, rescue and complex problems.

  • TP(I) = Trained Participant (Intermediate) - ability to participant as an independent team member, rig non-complex problems, perform self rescue and participate in the rescue of others.

  • TP(A) = Trained Participant (Advanced) - rig complex problems (e.g hanging anchors, redirects, traverses etc), respond to rescue scenarios requiring haul systems.

  • E/G = Expert/Guide - Competence in basically everything and be responsible for less skilled and dependant participants (especially in rescue scenarios).

If you predominately canyon in the Blue Mountains area you will generally only need the skills listed towards the Trained Participant (Intermediate) level (dependant on what canyon you are doing) with some overlap into Trained Participant (Advanced). If you’re playing in Northern NSW, Victoria and some Kanangra canyons in high flow you will start to need more of the skills listed under Trained Participant (Advanced) and above.

Note: This checklist is not comprehensive and only addresses technical canyoning skills, and does not cover the range of other skills required to go canyoning e.g. navigation, nutrition, first aid, party management etc. Even within the scope of technical canyoning skills this check list should not be considered a comprehensive guide. The division of skills into levels is not rigid and depending on your context you will be required to acquire and use skills and knowledge from anywhere on the spectrum. As always, do your research and make sure you have the necessary knowledge, skills and equipment to canyon safely and responsibly.

Gear

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Harness
Correctly fit and check harness (activity specific) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Understand the various types of harnesses and their purpose
• Rock climbing ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Canyoning ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Caving ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Alpine/mountaineering ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Chest harness
Correct fit and check of chest harness ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Helmet
Correct fit and check of helmet ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Whistle
Understand the characteristics of a whistle appropriate for canyoning ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Correct attachment ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Carabiners
Understand the various carabiner shapes and their use
• D ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• HMS ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Oval ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Semi circle ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Familiarity with various locking mechanisms including:
• Screw gate ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Dual action twist gate ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Tri action twist gate ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Twin gate ✔️ ✔️
• Slide lock ✔️ ✔️
• Ball lock ✔️ ✔️
Understand the appropriate use of non locking carabiners ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Personal anchor/tethers
Knowledge of various personal anchors/tethers:
• Sling ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Chain ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Lanyard (fixed length) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Lanyard (adjustable) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double lanyard (adjustable) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double lanyard (fixed length) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Correct use of a lanyard in simple contexts (attaching to anchor) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Correct use of a lanyard in complex contexts
• Traverse line ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rebaly/hanging anchor ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rope ascent (mechanical) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Belay device/abseiling device
Experience with the following abseiling devices:
• Figure 8 (basic) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Tube e.g. Black Diamond ATC ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Canyon Figure 8 e.g. Petzl Pirana or similar ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• RapRak ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Hydrobot ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Munter hitch (emergency only) ✔️ ✔️
• French Cross Crabs (emergency only) ✔️ ✔️
• Assisted Breaking Device e.g. Petzl Gri Gri ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Lock off mid abseil for chosen belay device/descender ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Apply additional friction for chosen belay device/descender ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Vulnerabilities of specific devices - eg larks heading a fig 8 on breakover lip if bight on outside ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Suitability of devices for different weight users - with/without rope bag, for different rope diameters & stiffness ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
For light children eg 7 yr old, 25kg, who need low friction to move at all: Piton brake.
Prusik Loops
Understand the purpose and mechanics ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Assemble prusik loops ✔️ ✔️
Mechanical ascenders
Understand the purpose, mechanics and risks. Demonstrate correct fit and use
• Chest ascender ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Hand ascender ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Foot ascender ✔️ ✔️
• Foot loop ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Quickdraws
Understand the purpose and risks associated with:
• Climbing quickdraw ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Canyoning quickdraw ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Alpinedraw ✔️ ✔️
Knife
Understand the purpose, risks and differences between:
• Climbing knife/folding knife ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Canyoning knife/fixed blade knife ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Understand why a canyoning knife is only ever used in an emergency ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Rescue kit
• Progress capture pulley ✔️ ✔️
• Pulley ✔️ ✔️
• Mechanical or soft rope grab ✔️ ✔️
VT (Valdotain Tresse) Prusik ✔️ ✔️
• Understand the purpose, mechanics, associated risks of a VT prusik
• Abseil loaded line ✔️ ✔️
• Abseil unloaded line ✔️ ✔️
• Use as third hand/autoblock ✔️ ✔️
• Use in passing a knot through a releasable anchor ✔️ ✔️
• Use in a haul system ✔️
• Use in a "cut in" ✔️
Pyrenean loop
Understand the purpose and function of a Pyrenean loop/extension ✔️ ✔️
Rope
Static ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Dynamic ✔️ ✔️ ✔️

Communication

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Understand the preferred order of communication ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Hand signals
Know and demonstrate:
• Stop/No ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• OK ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rope down/release ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rope up ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Slippery ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Sharp ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Jump ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Throw bag ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Guided Rapel ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Zipline bag ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Slide ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Open system ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Close system ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Whistle signals
Know and demonstrate:
• Stop (1 blast) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• OK (2 blasts) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rope down/release (3 blasts) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rope up (4 blasts) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Emergency (continuous blasts) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Verbal communication
Abseiling
• On rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Off rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• On belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Safe ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rock ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• On rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• On belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Climbing ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Take ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Slack ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Hard in ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Lower ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Clipping ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rock ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️

Descent

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Supported
Abseil with:
• Lower (participant is lowered by guide) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Bottom belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Top rope belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Unsupported
Abseil independently with:
• Third hand/autoblock ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• No backup ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Belay
Support another party member by providing:
• Bottom belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Top rope belay ✔️ ✔️
• Lower (participant is lowered by guide) ✔️
Second chance
Lower a participant on a "second chance" in a vertical context ✔️
Lower a participant on a "second chance" on a tension diagonal ✔️

Ascent

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Textile prusiks
Ascend unobstructed rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Ascend obstructed rope (i.e. pass a knot) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Mechanical
Ascend unobstructed rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Ascend obstructed rope (i.e. pass a knot) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Ascend through a rebelay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Ascend through a redirect ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Diagonal ascent
Via direct attachment to tension diagonal ✔️ ✔️
Via abseil line ✔️ ✔️
From anchor point ✔️
In flow ✔️ ✔️

Changing direction

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Perform a "change over" in both dry and wet (in flow) conditions
Dry
Ascend rope, switch to descent midway ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Descend rope, switch to ascent midway ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Wet
Ascend rope, switch to descent midway ✔️ ✔️
Descend rope, switch to ascent midway ✔️ ✔️

Knots

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Demonstrated proficiency tying:
• Overhand ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Figure eight (rethreaded) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Figure eight (on a bight) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Clove hitch ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Munter ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Water/tape knot ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Bowline ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Alpine butterfly ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double overhand hitch (a.k.a. poachers knot/barrel knot) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double fisherman ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Stone/Stein knot ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Larks head ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Prusik knot (Classic) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Prusik knot (French) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Prusik knot (Klemheist) ✔️ ✔️
• Prusik knot (Bachmann) ✔️ ✔️
• Bowline on a bight ✔️ ✔️
• Figure nine ✔️ ✔️
• Fusion knot ✔️ ✔️
• Super munter ✔️ ✔️

Belay

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Bottom belay / Firemans belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Top rope belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Third hand / autoblock ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Deep water partial belay ✔️

Rigging

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Maillon Rapides - basic use, closure inspection, finger tightness, vulnerability if left open, ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Retrievable - Releasable
• Eight block ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Eight Mule Overhand (EMO) ✔️ ✔️
• Munter Mule Overhand (MMO) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Bottom releasable ✔️ ✔️
• Releasble on joined rope ✔️ ✔️
• Jocker method - Double isolated strands relesable ✔️ ✔️
• Jester method (stich plate or tube belay device) - Double isolated strands relesable ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double rope releasble ✔️
Retrievable - Non-releasable
• Double rope (single rope) unblocked ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double rope (two joined ropes) unblocked ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Double rope isolated strands (e.g. stone knot) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Single rope - carabiner block ✔️ ✔️
• Single rope - knot block ✔️ ✔️
Non-retrievable
• Single rope (Bowline on a bight, Fusion knot or Figure nine) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Master-biner ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Hanging anchors ✔️ ✔️
Redirect ✔️ ✔️
Retrievable redirect:
• Tree ✔️ ✔️
• Bolt ✔️ ✔️
Rebelay ✔️
Guided rapel ✔️ ✔️
Fiddle stick ✔️ ✔️

Anchors

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Synthetic removable
Demonstrate correct inspection, use/construction. Understand advantages, disadvantages and associated risks.
• Sling (tape or rope) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Trad gear (e.g. nuts, cams, friends) ✔️ ✔️
• Pittons ✔️
Natural
Demonstrate correct inspection, use/construction. Understand advantages, disadvantages and associated risks.
• Bolard/boulder ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Tree ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Log ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rock thread ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Meat anchor ✔️ ✔️
Synthetic non-removable
Demonstrate correct inspection and use. Understand advantages, disadvantages and associated risks.
• Bolts (connected) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Bolts (non-connected) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Expansion type ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Glue in type ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Demonstrate correct construction. Understand advantages, disadvantages and associated risks.
• Expansion type ✔️
• Glue in type ✔️
Redundancy - understand the pricipal of redundancy and when it applies ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Traverse anchors
Demonstrate correct inspection, use/construction. Understand advantages, disadvantages and associated risks.
• Simple ✔️ ✔️
• Multipoint ✔️ ✔️
Hanging anchors ✔️ ✔️
Redirects ✔️ ✔️

Rope management

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Marking (tiger stripes)
Length markings ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Middle mark ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Quarter mark ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Length setting
Contigious rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Joined rope ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Coiling ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Rope bags
• Packing a rope bag ✔️ ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Use of single ended rope bag ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Use of a double ended rope bag ✔️ ✔️
Edge protection
• Bleeding ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• Rope protectors ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Abseil out of bag ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Inspection for damage ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Washing ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Cutting
Cutting rope and sealing ends to prevent fraying
• In field - cold knife + burner ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
• At home - hot knife method ✔️ ✔️
• At home - cold knife, super glue + tape method ✔️ ✔️

Float bags

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Use of a float bag to create temporary downstream anchor point ✔️
Use of a float bag to aid extraction from an aquatic hazard ✔️

Rescue

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Understand the concept of "rigging for rescue" and the role of releasable anchors ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Haul systems
• Counterbalance ✔️ ✔️
• 3 to 1 ✔️ ✔️
• 5 to 1 ✔️ ✔️
• 2 to 1 (drop loop) ✔️ ✔️
Conversion of a releasable into a haul
• Counterbalance ✔️ ✔️
• 3 to 1 ✔️ ✔️
Pick off ✔️
Cut in ✔️

Climbing

SP TP(I) P(A) E/G
Climb (top rope) ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Lead climb (sport) ✔️ ✔️
Lead climb (trad) ✔️
Lead belay ✔️ ✔️ ✔️
Clean - remove equipment from a climbing route e.g. quickdraws ✔️ ✔️ ✔️